Hiking poles take measurable load off your knees and hips on descents — research suggests somewhere in the range of 15–25% less impact per step on downhill sections, which adds up fast over a few miles. For hikers over 60, that’s the single biggest reason to use them, followed closely by the balance assist on roots, rocks, and loose gravel.
Walking Poles vs. Hiking Poles: The Difference Matters
The terms get used interchangeably, but they’re not the same tool.
Walking poles (sometimes called Nordic walking poles) are usually fixed-length or minimally adjustable, lighter-duty, and designed for pavement, parks, and groomed paths. The tips are often rubber and the baskets are small or absent.
Hiking poles (also called trekking poles) are built for uneven terrain. They adjust over a wider height range, have carbide or steel tips for grip on rock and dirt, removable baskets for mud or snow, and stronger locking mechanisms because they take real lateral force when you catch yourself on a slip.
If you’re hiking actual trails — even easy ones with roots, gravel, and grade changes — you want trekking poles, not walking poles. The price difference is small and the durability difference is not.
What Poles Actually Do for Knees and Hips
The mechanical benefit is straightforward: when you plant a pole on a downhill step, some of your body weight transfers through your arm and shoulder instead of landing entirely on the lead knee. Over a long descent, that’s thousands of fewer hard impacts on joints that may already be sensitive.
Poles also widen your base of support. On uneven ground — a wet root, a loose rock, a soft trail edge — having two extra contact points means a stumble stays a stumble instead of becoming a fall. This matters more after 60 because recovery reflexes slow down a bit, and a single bad landing can sideline you for weeks. If your knees are already a concern on long walks, poles pair well with a supportive knee brace for distance walking.
A few practical points:
- Use both poles, not one. Single-pole use creates an asymmetric gait that can aggravate hips over time.
- Shorten poles for uphill, lengthen them for downhill. Most adjustable poles have markings; aim for elbows at roughly 90 degrees on flat ground and adjust 5–10 cm each direction for grade.
- Plant the pole tip beside or slightly ahead of your foot on descents — not far out front, which doesn’t unload the knee.
Features That Matter After 60
Weight. A pole you’ll actually carry the whole hike beats a stronger pole you stop using at mile three. Aluminum poles run roughly 18–22 oz per pair; carbon fiber drops that to 12–16 oz. Carbon costs more and can snap rather than bend under sideways load, but for most hikers the weight savings are worth it.
Wrist strap design. Cheap straps are flat nylon that cuts into the wrist and restricts circulation. Better straps are padded, contoured, and adjustable so the pole hangs from your wrist when you relax your grip — meaning you’re not white-knuckling for hours.
Shock absorption. Internal spring or elastomer systems in the pole shaft soak up some of the jolt when the tip hits hard ground. Not everyone likes the feel (some find it spongy), but for hikers with sensitive wrists, elbows, or shoulders, the difference on a long rocky descent is noticeable.
Locking mechanism. External lever locks (FlickLock-style) are easier to operate with cold or arthritic hands than twist locks, and they’re more reliable when wet. This is worth paying attention to.
Grip material. Cork molds to your hand and wicks sweat. Foam is lighter and softer. Rubber gets slippery when wet and is generally the cheapest option. Cork is the usual pick for multi-hour hikes.
Product Recommendations
Black Diamond Trail Pro Shock
Aluminum shaft with a built-in shock absorption system, FlickLock external locks, and cork grips. These are well-regarded for the combination of durability and shock damping, and the lock mechanism is reliable in cold or wet conditions.
Best for: hikers who do longer descents on rocky terrain and want shock absorption without going to carbon. Skip if: you want the lightest possible pole or you dislike the slight “bounce” feel of shock-absorbing shafts.
Leki Makalu Lite AS
Aluminum with anti-shock, cork grips, and Leki’s lever lock system. Leki has been making poles for decades and the build quality reflects it. The strap design is one of the better ones for not cutting into the wrist on long days.
Best for: hikers who prioritize strap comfort and want a brand with strong long-term parts support. Skip if: you’re budget-conscious — there are capable poles for less.
REI Co-op Trailbreak
Aluminum, cork-and-foam grip, lever locks, no anti-shock. Honestly, these are mid-range and they know it — but they cover the basics well and are a sensible entry point.
Best for: occasional hikers, or anyone who wants a solid first pair without committing to premium pricing. Skip if: you have wrist or elbow issues that would benefit from shock absorption, or you hike frequently enough to justify a lighter pole.
Cascade Mountain Tech Carbon Fiber Quick Lock
Carbon fiber shaft, cork grips, lever locks, often sold in pairs. Light (about 7–8 oz per pole) and easy to handle.
Best for: hikers who want carbon weight savings on a budget and aren’t doing extreme off-trail terrain. Skip if: you’re hard on gear or hike heavy off-trail routes where carbon’s brittleness becomes a real concern.
FAQ
Do I really need two poles, or is one enough? Two. One pole creates an uneven load through your spine and hips. If you only want to carry one stick, a hiking staff is a different tool and is fine for flat, easy walks — but for trail hiking, use a pair.
How tall should my poles be? On flat ground, your elbow should bend to about 90 degrees when the tip is on the ground next to your foot. Shorten by 5–10 cm for uphill sections and lengthen by 5–10 cm for downhills.
Are rubber tips or carbide tips better? Carbide for dirt, rock, and trail. Rubber tip covers (which slide over the carbide) are useful on pavement or smooth rock where carbide skates. Most poles come with both.
Can poles help if I already have knee arthritis? They can reduce per-step impact, which some people with knee arthritis find makes longer hikes more tolerable. They’re not a treatment, just a load-management tool. Pairing them with a hiking backpack that doesn’t aggravate your knees is worth thinking about too.
Will using poles weaken my balance over time? There’s no strong evidence for this in recreational hikers. If you’re concerned, you can do balance work separately — single-leg stands, heel-to-toe walking — on non-hiking days.
Bottom Line
For most hikers over 60, a pair of aluminum trekking poles with cork grips, lever locks, and a comfortable padded strap will handle 90% of trails and meaningfully reduce knee and hip load on descents. Spend up for shock absorption if your joints are sensitive, or for carbon if weight matters more than ruggedness. Whichever you pick, use both poles, adjust the height for the grade, and plant them on every downhill step — that’s where the real benefit lives.